1. Not old. Vintage. :)

What's new Pussycat too?

Discussion in 'SIG: General Chat' started by M.D.Baker, May 4, 2020.

  1. by Paul "Mclaneinc" Irvine
    Paul "Mclaneinc" Irvine

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    I remember finding out that Jay Miner was connected to the Atari chip set after I had my Amiga, I had a notion that he may have been when I saw the Amiga had Copper Lists and thought "that sounds very like our Display List" on the old Atari. Its such a weird story of how a group of CBM workers left to move to Atari and then made their own company later that Amiga / Commodore brought out, bringing it full circle, and there we had the Amiga 1000.

    Such a smart set of fellows, both Atari 8bit and Amiga, years ahead of their time, mostly down to the clever use of custom processors sharing the load.
     
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  2. by M.D.Baker
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    Pondering on it all, I actually think the biggest mistakes made that were a loss for the industry and the consumers in the end was Jack "stealing" Commodore's engineers and turning down further support or buying the Amiga. And the Commodore engineer's accepting and leaving Commodore. I don't know the chronological order of these events OTTOMH, but I don't think they jumped shipped until after Jack bought Atari home division and had some place for them to go. And he would have known about the Amiga by then if he hadn't before.

    If he had gone with Amiga, then we would have that fine machine no matter what, through Atari or Commodore. But, if Commodore still had their engineer's (I just can't remember their names as well, OTTOMH) then they could have continued their 16-bit machine work at Commodore, which surely had at least been started design on by that time, but it could have been much better than the ST and stiffer competition for the Atari Amiga, because they could have still used next-gen versions of the VIC and SID line. We as consumers would have two great machines, greater than what we got, to choose from, and I think both Atari and Commodore would have had more success and maybe a more permanent spot in the PC market to this day. But at least we would have gotten and even better machine from Commodore than the ST, good as it is, since it had to be made in six months with off-the-shelf components! Which still shows how good the ex-Commodore engineers were too, with a time line like that and come up with a machine as good, and bug free (OS's aside), as the ST in that time.

    It was such a "wild west" back then though that anything could have happened. Atari might have been gone and we never got the Amiga or any other next gen Atari hardware based on the ANTIC/POKEY/GTIA/AMY hardware and maybe would have gotten a 16-bit VIC/SID machine. Or both and the Amiga was lost to time and never picked up by either company, had Warner also held on to Atari through the crash.

    Just imagine, machines with the 68000 CPU, but with Pokey II and Antic II and VIC-3 and SID II, with stereo sound, like two Pokey's or Sid's built into one chip, and of course expansion of resolution, color and sprites in the new ANTIC/GTIA and SID chips.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2022
  3. by M.D.Baker
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    I was just sitting here, at my XL Command Center (no, still not quite yet ready for me to take new pics of it all, it's stalled with my mother for now) but I was looking at my little expansion I have going on the outside of my still-not-working (haven't had time, other things first) 1200XL and just thought I'd show you my expanded OS system that I will have once it is working again. Starting with the 32-in-1 Warp OS+ inside (which will be reprogrammed with different and newer OS's) and of course my Syscheck on the PBI has OS spots too, but then I have my Super SpartaDOS X cart (will be reprogrammed upto the latest 4.9) with RTC, and now, my new Diamond GOS 3 on rom once again, like I had in the early 90's, this time with my own custom cart, and finally my MyIDE II with MyBIOS and the OSS carts on board ready to go, etc.

    It's quite the expansion though...only differing from old TI-99/4A computers expanding out the side by smaller size ad opposite side. The Coco's use 2-4 slot expanders so you don't have the train out the side. I'd get one of Dropcheck's multi-cart expanders, but these all work in conjunction with their pass-thru ports, so that doesn't work for me as you have to choose a slot on her design and it would just start a skyscraper like if using the other XL machines, just off to the side. So I think my extenders and legs at the end on the MyIDE II is the best solution. I'm not happy at all with the label I made for Diamond so that will be redone. But I'm going to have to do my own design, there never was any good label or logo/name made with a good image to download and print.

    Also a picture of my finished CX22 Trak-Ball. I'm glad I take these close up shots, it let's me see what I normally wouldn't, like how dirty my 1200XL has gotten around it's ventilation grooves! Time for a deep clean when I take it apart for repairs!

    By the way @Paul "Mclaneinc" Irvine , did you get the 32-in-1 I sent yet? I think I might failed to include the BASIC REV C Eprom, I found one among other chips here. So I can either send it to you or you can get a real or eprom one from someone over there if it wasn't included


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  4. by Paul "Mclaneinc" Irvine
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    Hi Matt, yes got the 32 in 1 a while back, I'm pretty sure I left a message to say it had arrived. Not fitted it yet, been having hand problems, so not soldered anything for a while.

    Will post when it's installed, thank you again.. No Rev C chip but no worries with that, see if someone else needs it..

    To paraphrase Jaws, "I think were gonna need a bigger PSU" With all those carts..
     
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  5. by M.D.Baker
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    I always keep in mind my PSU when adding another extension to my Atari's, but both the 800 and the 1200XL use the "universal" PSU's that the 810, 1050 and several other peripherals use too, and that PSU, at least in NTSC land, comes in several different AMP sizes and all of mine on my computers and drives are the larger variety 31VA which is about 3.5 amps compared to other newer XL/XE PSU's that can handle less than half of that amperage load, IIRC. I think I'm still safe. All that's a new power strain is the one more Diamond cart. That's also why there was no issue installing a Happy upgrade, SIO2PC, 1050-to-PC and LED lighting in my one 1050 all sucking power from the 1050 too.
     
  6. by M.D.Baker
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    I did a little bit of research on the Atari "universal" PSU this side of the pond. Apparently they came in three varieties that worked with 400/800/810/822/1010/1050/1200/XF551 and XEGS(?) devices. Starting at 15.3VA, 31VA and 40VA which is divided by the 9V AC, so that's amp loads of 1.7 amps, 3.44 amps and 4.4 amp loads. And I thought I had the biggest load!o_O

    The 5V DC PSU's of the 600/800xl/65/130XE came in between 1 amp and 2 amps, IIRC, though I haven't found specific sources like I did for the universal PSU. But that also seems to be the range most people who are using modern USB 5V replacements are in too. Though I believe 5V DC PSU's USB or not can be found in the 3 amp range. I think that would be best if you have the later model Atari's and need a new PSU and plan to add upgrades and expansions. Or if you convert the 1200XL to straight 5V DC I think you are best making sure you have as much amperage load possible on the new PSU as you can find.

    @Paul "Mclaneinc" Irvine what are you doing for a PSU with your 1200XL? An English version of the Atari universal supply? A 9V AC equivalent? Or are you converting it to direct 5V DC?
     
  7. by Paul "Mclaneinc" Irvine
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    Hi Matt, am using a good old Atari 9VAC supply, chunky and reliable (I hope)

    As for your machine, I know how technically proficient you are, was purely a joke re the PSU, I know you would have taken all that in to consideration, come on, it's The Mighty Modder, you know your stuff...
     
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  8. by M.D.Baker
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    I'm human, joking aside, I can forget and appreciate reminders anyway. If I turn on the machine (first testing will be with nothing attached of course) and it's acting wonky with all the attachments, I'll look at the PSU and amperage being sucked off it's tit first...
     
  9. by Paul "Mclaneinc" Irvine
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    I can't unsee / unread that...Blergh... Makes me think of The League of Gentle men breast feeding the pig...
     
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  10. by M.D.Baker
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    They should last longer than us, and I'm sure will outlive any new USB PSU's that are so tiny. With that comes efficiency, but certainly not longevity. 37 years using the same PSU's (at least for my 1050's when I still had a 130XE) and mine all still work fine. Mind you, I've had to replace the 20A fast-blow glass-tube fuses inside the half a dozen times (among about half a dozen PSU's) over the years, really the only thing that "breaks" on them, the coil should last forever, being so large and under so little stress compared to smaller modern PSU's.

    And I think 5 out of 6 of those times I had to replace the fuses were user fault on my part, like accidentally plugging them into my Indus Drives (no damage to drives) since barrel jacks and cords look identical, which use very similar 9V bricks, but are DC, not AC.

    But that's why I've never done the 5V DC direct mod to my 1200XL, though I may be forced to in the future if I want to fit the 3.5" internal drive as planned. But I may also just modify the heatsink itself, move it out of the way...there's still room inside the case to do that too.
     
  11. by Paul "Mclaneinc" Irvine
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    That's why I used the old Atari one, they just are indestructible...A bit like Captain Scarlet :)
     
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  12. by M.D.Baker
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    I did have one other order out that I forgot about, it arrived Friday or Saturday. I just let them sit until last night. It was four new CX40 boards, with contact bubbles, to properly repair my 2 Atari joysticks, the only two I have, both were painted to match my 1200XL system. My 800 has some good after market ones I use, modified to Joy2B+, one two-button the other three. I'll show them soon as they were just painted to match my 800CX.

    I ordered 4 of the CX40 boards for future repairs. I still need to get a couple original CX40's for my Atari VCS, all I have for it atm is an Atari flashback 2 joystick, which is compatible, but not as durable or as good a feel to them with their rubber bubbles inside instead of metal contact bubbles. The boards on the left are the ones I replaced, the ones on the right are two extra new ones.

    I'll save the old boards with the warn out bubbles, in case I can find the bubbles separately somewhere, which I haven't yet (If BEST E. only has them then I'll do without)

    I also have to order an new Starmaster joystick from Video 61, as I was modifying it for my 7800 (the other is one I have was modified for the 800CX), to make both buttons on it work as left/right 7800 buttons (a success there of course) and painting it to match the 7800 better as it's "red" was more of an orange and my 7800 stuff was recently painted Apple red.

    Anyway, one of the fire buttons (unique) fell to the floor next to my workbench, to the carpet and I was unaware...until I heard my dog munching on something and looked down to see a ruinous piece of plastic that was once a button! Atleast I'll have more spare parts for both my other Stamaster's.

    At least they are only $12 and I had only ordered one the last time from Video 61, along with some other items, and Lance very kindly sent me a second Starmaster controller for free. So I'll order a couple other things from him and see if he throws another in for free too.

    And what the hell, here is a pic of my other Starmaster and Megadrive controllers with Joy2B+ upgrades curing after painting to match the 800CX...I will still be painting the Starmaster text and arrows around the joystick blue too, I'll buy more Atari Fuji&name chrome logos and put one of them on the Genesis controller and a CX45 designation like I did with my CX35 mouse I made from the TRS-80 Coco mouse.

    This and working on the house is what I'm doing to keep busy and give my mind a rest of dealing with my mother and her condition and most likely imminent passing. I'm a little to down to feel like taking on an deeper or more involved projects at the moment. I don't even really feel like doing these controller mods and repairs, but sitting around feeling depressed and sorry for my mother and myself isn't any good, so I force myself to do this, and even posting the stuff, is all just for my mind's own good...a break from the reality.

    20220222_082603.jpg 20220222_082653.jpg 20220222_082643.jpg

    Dammit! I just noticed myself looking at the picture I took! You see that crack on the desktop next to my Atari 400 mouse pad in the first pic? I JUST fixed that last week and I see it's back! It's where to pieces of plywood join, and I guess I'm going to have to try using something other than wood putty since it keeps cracking when the desk is used...maybe just some silicon in the crack and paint over it. It was reinforced from the beginning with a board underneath holding both boards "tight" and that's also where I installed a support leg, but it cracks anyway.

    I think because I made the hole apparatus out of scrap wood, and the two pieces of plywood have their grain running perpendicular to each other and flex differently along those grain lines when weight is applied. But that's the only way I could make the scrap pieces fit.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2022
  13. by M.D.Baker
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    Though this was last week, and I shared on my profile update on AA and added pics to my blog over there on the Bally Professional Arcade, I did finish repairing the broken controller (details, before/after/process pics in my blog in my AA profile) and repainting it, including the gold badge trim with 18Kt gold paint pen by Krylon that another Bally restorer recommended for areas I couldn't use auto pin-stripe gold trim. You can still see a slight blemish where I fixed the controller at the top by the stick&paddle head, it would have been perfect but there was a delay between repair and painting, and I forgot to do a final sanding there, but it was the first test subject and my other one and two I'm repairing for the other guy will be perfect. I used Rust-oleum's Canyon Black, in satin, painter's choice spray paint for the controller to match the original color and sheen.

    I also received a Bally Basic cart, ready to hook up to a recorder, which apparently you have to swap between mic and headphone/aux out to load and save. No disk drives were ever made since this cartridge was the only thing to be officially released by Bally toward upgrading to a real computer. Since DIY & Homebrew stuff has come along, which I plan to jump on the bandwagon for though to full fill the original marketing promises for yourself with the machine.

    And my first DIY cartridge. I payed $5 for a Space Fortress rom&board from the same person that has been helping me with tips and parts (I'm buying a 32K ram expansion and multi-cart from him soon). I printed the cassette looking cartridge out with my Ender 3 printer, in white, then painted it Canyon Black, satin, to match official carts. I then found a clear picture of the original cartridge online and after resizing and cropping, I printed out my own label on premium satin photo paper, just like I did with my Atari 800CX computer badge, and glued it in place matching the Basic cartridge's label placement.

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  14. by nysavant
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    That Genesis controller is going to look awesome in the white with blue buttons. Very nice Matt.
     
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  15. by M.D.Baker
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    Thank's @nysavant , the START button (or is it a PAUSE?) was painted grey, it's not in the picture, though that button is currently useless, I may mod the controller further for 4 compatible Joy2B+ buttons, but I don't know if anything is out yet that supports more than 3 buttons. And Star Trek S.O.S. is the only game I'm aware of (haven't checked the hack list lately) that supports all 3 buttons on the Genesis modded controller.

    I might have shown you boys my custom painted Dreamcast last fall, I don't recall, I know I showed pictures on my profile update on AA. Anyway, I have printed out a stand for the DC and controller and VMU holders and wanted to show them off too anyway. The controller holder fits both style Atari Jaguar controllers and works good with the 7800 joypad too, so I'll be printing out more for all of them and another for my second DC controller. As I haven't found ready-made models to print made for those system's controller specifically anyway. Only for the 7800 pro-controller I showed you guys before. I'm sure they have some for 2600 controllers which will cover that system and my XL computer controllers, I just haven't looked yet.

    This custom paint job was necessary after retro-brighting twice and yellowing returning with a vengeance...just in case I didn't talk about this here before...once again, Canyon Black, satin, and the same nickel paint in satin I've used for XL stuff. I replaced the LED with a blue one that goes well with the new colors, though I have been thinking of changing it to pure white, which might look even better.

    And next to the VMU in the holder is an SD card interface that plugs into the back of the DC, and there's a loader disk for it I've temporarily misplaced. So I'll be able to fill up a card with disc images and load them from a menu instead of searching through my dozens and dozens of DC CDR's I made over the years. I used to have quite the real collection of games for it from buying it new in '99, but I sold it off around 2004 when I moved to Texas and I only have half a dozen real GDR's now and the rest are all CDR's.

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  16. by nysavant
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    Nice paint job on the DC. Looks more in line with the other Sega consoles that way.
    Sega had lots of good ideas with the Dreamcast and I saw a couple of new releases for it last week in-store which was cool :)
    (and by the looks of it you have same little HDMI switcher as me).
     
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  17. by M.D.Baker
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    Yeah, I have my Xbox 360, Blue Ray Player and DVD player (only for old VCD's it supports-and upconverts!) as HDMI so I needed the switcher and the output goes to my projector. Everything else, Dreamcast, Jaguar, original Xbox and the various vintage media format machines are all connected via VGA, either directly or through one of two VGA converter boxes, one for RGB/component and one for composite/S-video. They all get upscaled to progressive scan 480/576p (depending if they are PAL or NTSC machines, I have both, and output on all of them is 75Hz VGA in either 640x480/576 VGA or XGA (1024x768) or WXGA (1600x1000+p anyway I forget offhand). They can all be sent as direct and only upscaled to progressive scan (line doubling) or also go through the converter's adaptive 3D combing and filtering and anti-aliasing processes and upscaled to high-definition like is done with DVD's on Blueray players. The RGB to VGA coverter box is hidden behind the DC next to the HDMI 3-way. You might catch a glimpse in one of the pictures.
     
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  18. by M.D.Baker
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    I went off on my video output tangent and forgot to talk about the DC and it's color some more. Yes, I did paint it black to match the older Sega consoles better, and there was a black sports edition released in the states at least, of the DC, but it has what I consider a very ugly 'Sega Sports' logo on it and the controllers that I never cared for unfortunately. But my next vintage console purchase will be replacing my Sega Saturn I sold years ago, and it will match it's black.

    I don't know if I'll get another Sega Megadrive/CD/32X system combo again or not, if I do, it has to be the model 1 and the first model CD with the sliding door that goes underneath and they tend to cost more. But for the Megadrive/Genesis, I'm only interested in a few games made for each of the add-ons. The Road Rash games on the Genesis and a few others, the Core design games like Battle Corp. and Soul Star for the Sega CD, and there are a couple favorites of mine on the 32X too, even with it's tiny library. I can count the games I want for the entire system on both my hands though. Saturn and DC have many more games I like.

    I also have emulators for the Master System, Genesis and Game Gear on my Dreamcast. And though I haven't checked the seen lately, I don't think they ever did, or even be possible, to do a good Saturn emulator even on the DC, it had custom chips and even though I think the DC's chips are next-gen of those, I don't know enough about it and how easy it would be to emulate a Saturn on it. As far as I know, no Genesis emulator was made to include the 32X emulation either, again, possibly too much for the Dreamcast to emulate well.

    So it may end up just being the physical Saturn and Dreamcast in my collection, but at least they will match! I already have my Jaguar, 3DO and PS2 that runs PS1 software from the era. I never was a Nintendo fan, but the one system I did like (except for the retched controllers) was the N64. I may get another one of them again someday. The the next gen of vintage consoles is covered with my DC, PS2 and original Xbox as well. I briefly owned a PS3 and sold it (given to me used), nothing I wanted that wasn't on my 360. I have not owned anything newer myself, my brother has the Xbox One S I play sometimes.
     
  19. by M.D.Baker
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    My Megadrive/Genesis controller, converted to 3-button Joy2B+ for my 800CX is re-assembled and nearly complete. I still have to add an Atari decal and maybe some text under the buttons like it had before (TRIGGER), I'm not sure though, the buttons have their designations on them, but the controller looks pretty empty. Maybe I should paint the circle and "oval" around the pad and buttons grey? What do you guys think?o_O

    And since the controller start/pause button (I forget which it was) was no longer being used, and the fact that I seemed to have misplaced or lost it during the painting process :facepalm:, I decided to turn it into an LED light display for the buttons when they are pressed. 2 blue and one white LED in the middle. I do plan to still mask that oval with something white with just holes for the LED's to barely poke through.

    20220224_085425.jpg

    Yes, there are a few tiny black specks that got on the controller case during re-assembly somehow, that's not on your screen. I didn't notice until I saw them in the photo. I cleaned it.
     
  20. by nysavant
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    That looks smashing Matt. Like the LEDs. And think I'd go for gray button surrounds like you mention.
     
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  21. by M.D.Baker
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    I think I may also use a gray mask for the LED's...what do you think @nysavant ? White or gray around the LED's? I did have the missing button painted gray before I lost it...
     
  22. by nysavant
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    I think gray would look best there as well Matt :)
     
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  23. by M.D.Baker
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    looking a second time after you agreed, I will paint it gray there, but only the concave oval part on the case, directly around the LED's will be white. And I think I'll install the white mask on the inside of the case with the LED's poking through, and I'll leave the oval "shaft" inside walls white as well, to better reflect the LED lights.

    But around the buttons and pad will be just gray.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2022
  24. by nysavant
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    I've spent the last couple of weeks playing about with an ex-post office bike and now finally have it up and running. If the weather stays okay might even take it for a little ride out this weekend to the local country park.

    bike.jpeg

    Also plan on doing a little bit of gaming on the XL and maybe have a shot of one or two of the other machines as well.
     
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  25. by M.D.Baker
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    Nice Bike! I have an old mountain bike from a junk haul-off job I did last year that I intend to get up and running again. Though I'd rather just have a good old Schwinn Cruiser like I had in my twenties out in California. Simple, like your postal bike, except it had the curved upper frame bar.
     
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