Bally Arcade (Montgomery-Ward edition) full restore

I've also been looking over the original PSU, and I think I may be able to repair it. I'll have to salvage a cord from somewhere else though, if my repair works. A cord with 3 lines and ground, between the wall-wort PSU's output wires and the Bally Arcade's power input terminal.

See the broken wire in between the left hand prong and the transformer?



I am currently separating the output wires from each other and insulating them a layer at a time with Liquid Electric Tape, allowing each layer to dry. These wires were originally supposed to be held in place by insulating tape between the wires that wrapped around the transformer. This tape was long removed, I don't recall if by me, years ago, looking for a broken wire/connection or before I owned it. I'll also secure the wiring back to the transformer with tape again, or zip-ties, and the cord I am connecting those wires too as well, so these delicate wires are not broken off from the transformer by pull-stress..



Though the outer housing of this PSU transformer is rusty, which I will clean off, I believe the coil inside to be in good condition still, under the insulating tape, and if so, the PSU should work again once I repair the broken power input wire on the plug.

Once I repair the wire, and if the PSU is working, then I will use some industrial strength E6000 adhesive to encase the plug-to-transformer wires, which will become a hard, clear, acrylic blob to avoid them from breaking again, probably from stress when plugging and unplugging it from the wall. This is the stuff I finally used to permanently attach the PBI edge connector on my 1200XL to the motherboard, and it's worked flawlessly under the stress of repeated plugging and unplugging the Syscheck board now for a year or two. Like another favorite of mine, J.B Weld, I can't recommend E6000 enough, when it absolutely positively needs to stay put!

 

Ah, the joys of using a quality art package on the Atari, Baker.
As you point out, there have been some classics.
You must have produced some really impressive examples in the past and I'm so sorry that some are now lost forever.
The superb Rasta examples that you have produced - and now live forever (we hope) - are testament to your skills and satisfaction on re-creating artful experiences on such humble machines (in terms of processing power and what would now be termed vintage equipment).
The only Atari art I ever did was the clouds / sky "playfield" to Dogfight (which is still nowhere near complete) and I think I used another program that was highly recommended at the time in the UK - G.A.D. - Graphic Art Department from Red Rat software of Manchester...erm, there I go again! G.A.D. was released by Databyte and Red Rat did Technicolour Dream - another two titles I frequently get mixed up!

I can definitely say that works neatly but my quick background backdrop is a basic testimony to its capabilities.



More on G.A.D. can be found here:


http://www.atarimania.com/utility-atari-400-800-xl-xe-graphic-arts-department_32949.html

and Technicolor Dream is over here:
http://www.atarimania.com/utility-atari-400-800-xl-xe-technicolor-dream_15870.html

Example art videos here:

 

Incredibly careful precision work you're doing there, Baker - bit by bit, patient and mighty fine restoration work in other words.

Many thanks again for such detailed photos and explanations.

If you ever fancy fixing an Oric 3" drive (which isn't as rusty...) ??!! LOL.

Good luck there - I'm sure you'll sort it soon so keep us updated.

 

Yes, that will be an excellent resource for programming, once I have the machine running and restored. Right now I really need board schematics for trouble-shooting (to start with, which voltage lines from the PSU go to which inputs on the power-input box) or a full Field Service manual. I just downloaded the file you linked too, hoping it would have schematics. But only block-diagrams of the system, which doesn't help much for hardware trouble shooting and repair. I'm going to search for a FSM or schematics now.

 

I found everything I need through this link: https://console5.com/wiki/Astrocade

 

So, back to my attempt to resurrect the OEM PSU. A delicate wire repair needs delicate wire and precision tools to accomplish:



Here is the PSU after it is repaired:



Here are all the output wires, isolated and insulated with Liquid Electric Tape.



Before I start connecting a cable, I'll still need to secure it to the transformer too, with some Zip ties, but the next step will be plugging the PSU into an extension cord and testing the output wires for voltage, and proper voltage, or there's no sense in continuing and my attention will have to turn to making a new PSU with two transformers that fit the voltage and minimum amp specs.

But first, one more thing to ensure a good connection with the outlet, I'll be cleaning off the heavily tarnished plug prongs with TarnX. just dampen a paper towel with the TarnX and rub down the prongs/posts. I'll also use TarnX on the motherboard edge connectors when my attention returns to it. Your focus is your reality.



A before TarnX shot:



An after TarnX shot:



So, now off to test with the multi-meter, I'll show pics of the results in the next post.

 

Ok, when I plugged the PSU in, it shorted out and the opposite plug prong wire disintegrated, so the transformer is damaged internally, which is why the other prong wire must have blown in the first place. So, it's back to the drawing board with building my own PSU for this unit. In the meantime, I will continue to restore the case and replace all the capacitors on the mobo with new ones, just in case any are already bad or go bad after the restoration so it doesn't have to be done later anyway. And I'll start tracking down some PSU units I can use for my DIY PSU.

 

Well, I've put aside the motherboard and shielding for a while and jumped back on case restoration. I did another deep cleaning, then a rub-down with orange-glow wood rejuvenation oil which also rejuvenates old plastic. I also cleaned off all the ruined and badly done metal trim paint on the outer case edges, I will try a quality gold paint job on them with quality gold paint, but if it doesn't look good enough (it's not going to be chrome shiny) then I'll eventually redo it with some proper gold chrome trim. The gold trim around the keypad area is also in rough shape, and not really salvageable, so I'll attempt the same there as well.

The keypad is looking pretty good now that it is cleaned, it has some minor scratching on it's metal surface, but polishing it up helps to hide it. The wood grain motif is in great shape over-all, there are some worn and scratched areas that are hardly noticeable along the bottom edge, but not enough to attempt any repairs, you can't see it unless you go in close for a look. So the next post will show the gold trim work I've done and dirty and cleaned controllers, and probably start the body repairs too.

On the tinted clear plastic cover, it looks great after the orange glow and I can make that shine permanent later with the WIPE-NEW product I used on my XL and 800 cases that worked so well. The Montgomery Ward name stamp cleaned up nicely as did the Bally metal name badge.





I still have to clean the controllers and they will also need some gold trim restoration on the Bally name logos that are on them. The controllers will also need some minor body work done on them around the top where the joystick/paddle protrudes where pieces have broken off on both controllers. I will be using J.B. Weld for the body work as I always do, but it will also be necessary to paint the controller handles afterward to hide the body work. They are a black semi-shiny plastic so some semi-gloss black paint should do the trick, with clear coat to protect it.

 

After sitting overnight, the orange glow oil has reconditioned the plastic and soaked in or evaporated away, so the plastic has been rejuvenated to it's original color and sheen. I'm especially impressed with the results on the tinted cover, and I don't think I need to bother with wiping it down with Wipe-New either. I'm happy with the results as-is, except for restoring the gold trim which I attempt today. I'll post pics later...



EDIT: Well, I thought I had an artist's gold paint pen, but apparently I mis-remembered and I have two of Silver that have different size pen tips. So, finishing the case will have to wait a few days until I get around to getting some paint or maybe find so true gold chrome decal type material I can put on it...I wonder how much real Gold Leaf would cost, if I could even find a place that sells sheets of it or whatever, and if I could successfully apply it having never done it before? Hmm...

 

Well, well, looky what popped up for me as the very first choice on Amazon when I put in the search for "Gold Chrome trim tape leaf decal." This will be the perfect replacement and easy to apply. I may have to do some trimming, but there are two size pinstripes and I believe the larger will be good for the out case and the smaller for the trim around the keypad/cart area. So a totally proper restore it is and no compromising needed! And there will be extra for repairs down the road and other projects too!

https://www.amazon.com/Pinstripe-ZA...me+trim+decal+tape+leaf&qid=1582222538&sr=8-1

I'm ordering it now, so this restoration of the case will continue when it arrives! For now, I'll jump back on the motherboard and start replacing caps, though I don't have ones to replace the 2 largest yet. I'll order them at the same time I order new PSU's.

I also may have found the power supplies I need to build my dual-PSU, but I had to ask questions and am awaiting answers. One doesn't say if output is AC or DC and I need AC and the other that outputs AC doesn't include amperage, so I have to see if it meets minimum requirements...

 

By the way, remember that picture in the third post of this thread showing a few broken pieces of plastic that fell out of the case when I opened it? Well there is nothing broken on any part of the case. I don't know where those pieces came from, maybe they broke off a cartridge and fell in at some point? But that's good news as far as I'm concerned, it makes it easier to restore.

 

It turns out I have 6 of the 9 capacitors I need, but I knew I had to order two anyway. 5 capacitors are identical, but I only have four on-hand, I thought I had more...as per usual, I have plenty of what I don't need.

So, until the needed parts get here to complete the restoration, I'm setting it aside and having another stab at trouble shooting my 1200XL over the next few days. I've also still got an Indus GT and 1050 on the fritz I need to finish trouble-shooting too that I've been putting off.

 

Just a small update on the state of this Bally restoration. Which I will point out here is not a restoration back to original condition, though I believe I already mentioned I'd be doing a video output modication and removing the RF modulator. For better or worse, as far as anyone else is concerned, I like to mod my machines to make them the best they can be beyond their original build, if I can.

Updating for to use with modern TV's is becoming a necessity as old CTR's eventually give up the ghost, and even though we still have coaxial antenna inputs for cable and satellite on our TV's, how much longer will that be true? And RF input on at least modern LCD looks even worse than RF on CRT's to me. So video upgrades become a necessity, I feel, on these old systems if one intends keep using them, once in a while and not just be displayed on a shelf forever. And why not have the best possible video output you can for these old beasts?

And since I'm already doing a video mod, and am using non-original metallic gold chrome auto trim to replace the original gold chrome. The replacement is actually probably better quality in that it will last longer and not wear off like the original, since it's got some thickness and industrial strength adhesive meant to endure years of weather. But it's not restoring it to original, that would have to be done with the same process as was done with the chrome trim at the factory.

With that in mind, and since I'm also building a new PSU unit for the Bally Arcade, I have decided NOT to go the route I have seen in other Bally restoration videos of attaching the replacement power supply directly to the original internal plug connector, I will be using a PSU port salvaged from a broken Xbox 360 unit, and the cord from the Xbox PSU box that plugs into the connector. (below is a picture of the Xbox 360 PSU cord). It has 6 lines going through it which is more than enough for the four wires that go from the PSU to the Ball Arcade unit.

I have found PSU's with the correct voltage and minimum amp requirments for the dual-power needed. Just like the ones I found for the CA-2001 disk drive PSU I built, they are made for musical audio equipment like distortion peddles on guitar's and whatnot, but they are the only type I can find that are AC/AC and the right voltages and amp needs. Both will cost me about $60 combined, and it's not in my budget to order them until next friday, along with the capacitors I need for the mobo. I'm buying single units for the large capacitors and then I'm going to order two full capacitor kits with the most common uf's and voltages in both axial and radial style.

In the meantime, the gold chrome trim has been ordered and may arrive as soon as today, so the exterior restoration will continue sooner, including the joysticks, though I don't think I have the paint needed to complete the controller restoration either, I'll get that sometime in the next week too.

 

I just received a notice that the gold trim is out for delivery, no later than 6:30 pm this evening. So I may have pictures up of the process and finished case restore later this evening, or overnight for you fellows across the pond.

 

The gold chrome auto trim arrived as expected. It looks like the thinner trim will be a perfect fit around the Bally Arcade keypad area and I'll us the larger trim for the top perimeter of the case, however it will need trimming. I still need to do something about the reset and eject buttons, reset is completely missing it's gold and the eject is damaged. I may have to just resort to gold paint there. Though I'll attempt just a touch up on the eject button since the original chrome is still mostly there.

But first, a few more close-up shots of the Bally's keypad area, as I don't think any previous photos have accurately captured the actual damage to the gold chrome trim. Even these photos below, aren't the best, and you would expect to see black where the chrome has worn off, as it was with the top case outer trim. But it's actually a light pinkish-tan color left under the worn off chrome. And in all the photos here, the light areas are where it is worn off, it's not just caused by light glare. It will be a huge difference once new gold trim is in place.

 

Alright you 8-bit retronauts, here are pictures of restoring the gold chrome trim around the keypad!

Here is the first strip in place at the top.



Here are top and bottom strips in place, the bottom plastic protective coating half-way removed for show.



Here we have all four sides and the center keyboard trim in place, over-lapping prior to trimming.



Here is the final result, after over-lapping the trim, cutting at a 45 degree angle on the corners trims both top and bottom strips to be flush. The center trim separating the keypad from the cart port was cut straight across using the upper and lower trim edge as a guide to cut as close as possible to be flush and hide the seam as best possible there too. And finally, the corners of the trim are trimmed to match the outer curved corners of the keypad and cart port frame.



Here is what it looks like with the case back in place over the keypad.



I'll post pictures of the outer top-case trim restoration tomorrow.

 

Looking absolutely LUSH, Matt.

What a beauty - gold chrome trim really starting to shine and that rare-bird Bally console looking more like the day it was bought, by the day.

Keep it up, fella.

These things are literally a labour of love.

 

I was just noticing that the eject button isn't original gold either, it was redone with silver paint, so I'll be getting a gold paint pen to redo both buttons. They didn't do too bad of a job on the eject button, assuming the damaged areas have worn off again since, but why they used silver on it instead of gold, and the same with the outer case trim too, I have no idea. If a job is worth doing, it's worth doing right.

I was just searching for and studying some other Bally Astrocade/Pro Arcade system images to make sure I'm right about the original look, and I believe this photo below is one of the better ones, showing all gold trim and highlights.

 

That one looks absolutely immaculate, fella.

Showroom condition from back in the day, I guess?

I can feel the nostalgia from here and soon yours will glitter like gold too.

I might have to get mesen a gold chair for the next time I go and sit out in the street...

With an illuminated nasal passage.

As you do.

 

Here is the finished gold chrome trim on my case. All that's left is painting the RESET and EJECT button's raised lettering and some Wipe-New on the tinted clear cover for original luster, and Ms. Bally will be restored to her former beauty! (cosmetically anyway)

I wish they were better pictures, but I have terrible lighting for photographing in this room and the flash only adds glare. The last picture is an attempt to get a shot from the same angle as the picture I posted 2 posts above.

 

I'd say that beauty is looking mighty fine and cosmetically almost there, Matt.

Have you now completed the restore and refurb internally or still some work to go at there, fella, ie, capacitors, PSU work etc?

 

I have to wait until this coming Friday to order the needed capacitors and PSU/transformers. So this project isn't getting finished this week. I could go ahead and start installing capacitors since I have some that will work, but they are radial style capacitors and the originals that fit the motherboard are axail. Friday I'm ordering two capacitor sets, each with 500+ capacitors of the most common sizes (including what I need), one of axial and one of radial.

Capacitors is about the only thing left in my electronic parts store that I haven't bought a set of dozens or hundreds of pieces, I've been buying in quantities of 5 or 10 as I need them, but it's hugely more economical to buy in quantity with the sets they sell on Amazon. Extras of all the common types is also what I need since I never know what I'll need until I need it too.

Back on point, I've decided to wait and use proper fitting axial capacitors.

So after finishing the case (actually, it's on hold until I get a gold paint pen to finish the buttons and that will be ordered Friday as well), I will continue with clean, and restoring the controllers. IIRC, I can test them out for functionality on an Atari, it's just they are wired differently so the trigger button might be up on the joystick and up on the joystick might be right, but I think I can still test all directions and buttons and paddles for functionality at least, before the Bally is up and running.

But the controllers will also not be completely finished either, until the gold paint pen I will order arrives to repair the logos on them, and I get some black spray paint to repaint them after doing body work on broken parts. So...I'll probably get started on the controllers today, and have done what I can, with pictures by this evening. It's another lousy, rainy day here anyway.

 

So, before I get started, here are some "before" shots of the controllers and current condition.

In the last picture showing the top of the controller, I believe that is corrosion on the gold metal surrounding the "2." I'm hoping I can clean that up some or completely with some TarnX. The number one controller is in much better condition with no corrosion, only a few fine scratches that will stay, to give it "character" and I'll shine both up as much as possible too.

The Bally logos on both sides used to have gold chrome plating on them, and will be painted gold after the controllers are repaired and painted black.

One controller is broken in two places, the other in one.

As stated before, I will be using the same technique on repairing the broken parts as I did with my Syscheck XL case I modified from a Commodore modem case (as seen on AS). using electrical tape for the mold around the outside, and fill it in from the inside with J.B. Weld. Then I will use copper trace repair across the top with more J.B. Weld on top of that to create extra strength. Sort of like re-bar in cement.

 

Here are interior shots of the Bally controllers, for the curious.

One has a plastic cover in place and the other has it removed, that cover slides between the trigger and the leaf switch and wraps half-way around the joystick apparatus. It has a heavy-duty spring which returns the joystick rod to center. On the bottom of the mechanism is a small PCB board which, once again, contains metal bubble contacts like those found in Atari CX-40 joysticks. But, there are heavy-duty leaf springs attached to the rod that press against a polyurethane "wings" that actually press against the bubble contacts in this chain reaction. Underneath all of that is a pot that looks pretty similar to the ones found in Atari paddles.

It's all almost arcade quality, which one might expect from Bally/Midway, since they had/have an arcade video and pinball division(s). Not quite as heavy-duty, slightly downgraded for the consumer market, high-end consumer market. And if these were arcade controllers they would be in die-cast metal cases, not plastic. Still, the quality you expect in an expensive after-market controller, not ones included in a system that needs to compete in price among other things, against Atari VCS, Odyssey 2 under original ownership and later Intellivision, Colecovision and the 5200 under new ownership.



Here are shots of a complete tear-down, short of the main assembly.I will be testing and cleaning contacts while it is apart, after I do the body-filler on the controller handle, while I wait for it to cure. I will probably have to tear-down the paddle-pot and clean it as they get tarnished from sitting. I've had to redo Atari paddle pots after just a few months of non-use. But I'll test them first...But it all looks in very good condition and I expect the joystick and fire button to work without issue, even though I'll clean them anyway.



This last picture is shows the shape of the joystick opening, basically square, with indents in the middle, and those are molded in, not from wear. I'll have to build up a "wall" with the J.B. Weld that is even across, and then use my Dremel with a grinding stone to re-create the proper indent(s), otherwise the joystick(s) won't have the proper throw-distance as other directions.