Most liked posts in thread: What's new Pussycat too?

I'm not considering using port B in XL/XE mode with the 800, I'm talking about the physical port connectors 3 and 4; tied into the second PIA to use in XL/XE mode, have a dip-switch probably to disconnect ports 3 and 4 from Port B, physically, in XL/XE mode (though I would imagine that Incognito deactivates controller ports 3 and 4 in XL/XE mode, so I may not have to use a dip-switch) and have them tied into the second PIA when the dip-switches are changed. That way I might not need to add in more ports on the 800 for the second PIA, just on my 1200XL, unless I decide I need 6 or more ports for the dual-PIA's and my robot.

As to the 400 being used, that later in the process. This is a project about learning to program my Atari, to program a robot, starting with just the arm, using an old Analog magazine robot arm article as a starting point. I will use my 3 AtariLab Interfaces, along with more I make myself, to first connect the robot arm to the Atari through 4 or more joystick ports. Learn to program it, etc. After that, the next step will be to take that robot arm, robot tracks, and a DIY torso with a 400 inside it, and the robot will be directly connected to the 400's 4 (or more) controller ports to use the tracks, arm and sensors to move around and interact via programs on the 400 inside it, with a The!Cart or something on the 400 for storage, the membrane keyboard will still be there, on the robot too.

But the extra PIA's and ports will be used for other projects too, as will the AtariLab Interfaces, they are just an easy plug-in I/O system for controlling exterior devices, at least in the prototyping stages. Having fun making use of the Atarilab Interfaces with more than two simple cartridge programs and a couple of sensors. Like would have been expanded upon if the software series had been successful, and beyond for my part.

 

Hi Matt
Always a good move to have spare logic chips available. You do need to be careful about what you are buying from China though, as I've found to my cost, I recently purchased 10x Samsung KM62256 SRAM chips, it was a resonable price. anyway they arrived a month or so later, I didn't check them at the time, getting to the point they all fuction, as memory chips but not at the speed I had ordered, closer inspection reveal they all had Identical date and Fab markings, but the actual chips themselves were of 4 diffrent package types, none of which Samsung would ever have used. I did 'clean' one chip up, the original marking had been ground away, and a painted layer with it new makers identification added ..
A little investigation revealed this, as an example :-


Thankfully due to all the experiments I used to do many years ago, I still have a load, of older LS Logic, but I of course do buy new for the faster items like 74'F' series chips.

 

It certainly would make it look nice. The RGB ones are my first choice since I can have white or yellow lighting, any one of a palette of many colors or multi-color constantly changing. They fit right in with Atari and the rainbow Fuji and rainbow-effect graphics. What ever you are in the mood for. I have 4 sets that have their own remotes, but any of the remotes works on all of them. Also the LED lighting in my computers too. The last set I purchased though, I went with a slightly more expensive brand, but instead of a remote, it works via wi-fi or blue-tooth with my Android phone. Anyhow, the cheaper brand I bought half a dozen sets of works great and they are only $15 dollars a set with free shipping with Amazon Prime. 6 foot, 16 different colors.Peel-and-stick strips. I hide them behind my shelf fascia so you don't see the lights, just their light.

I almost forgot, the type I have only come with a USB-to-barrel plug power cord, so if you want to plug them into the wall, you have to supply your own 5v DC wall-wort phone chargers, but NOT ones that use the USB, but standard barrel plug. It could be just a USB wall-wort and then use the cable that comes with it, but it's very short.Oh, and these are classified as TV back-lighting LED lights.

I have plenty of 5v barrel plug PSU's on hand from all kinds of devices from over the years, so I just used them.

 

Ha ha, the old box of PSU's, I have the same thing here, just loads of random voltages and currents..Dead handy tho..

 

I just recently went through a box of about 20 PSU's I have, with a magnifying glass and a silver Sharpie, checking voltage, amperage and AC or DC and then writing it on the side of the PSU's with the Sharpie, so I could easily identify them when needed. All different types. I still have a bunch more scattered among crates in storage.

 

Yet to organise mine, well I did have a look at what I had and most were 9 - 12 volt DC centre pin positive.

Going to off load some to a mate at some safe time, I'll probably just keep the chunkier / bigger amp ratings.

 

I remember my father's globe from when I was a child, one of the old black oceans ones, and it had the raised relief, so I made sure any I bought had the same as I really loved his for that. What I didn't care for on my father's were the nations in different pastel colors. I really like the metallic look of the one I bought much more. Mine is classier looking and less classroom looking.

 

I'm still in awe of that old teacher's wooden display cabinet you managed to secure to store all your Atari goodies in, Tim. It might as well be an official Atari cab as far as I am concerned as it just oozes nostalgia for me.

Neon lights inside? I'd suggest the faint glow of 70s style small bulbs perhaps recessed under the top shelf/shelves?

Nice work, buddy - looking gReat in there!

 

All sounds very tasty, Graham - be sure to update us here when you have your work in projects up and running. Thanks for all the extra effort you've put in on my Oric disk drive PSU unit. As and when, fella. You've a busy life, I know. Cheers once more.

 

The green LED radio alarm clock, CD player is my old BOSE Wave radio which the 800's new stereo output will be hooked up to via the Bose' rear inputs, I posted about the radio a few days ago. Yep, them GT's and an 810 for the 800 and a CA 2001 and two Happy 1050's for the 1200XL. At least until I get another 1200XL, besides Paul's, up and running again.

 

And found this circuit diagram :-


the 74c923 is worth $10 all by itself !!

 

Gawd, just on a Space 1999 Watch Party (as you do when it's blowing a gale outside, so i'm dodging DIY jobs), and here is Dr Helena Russell using a prototype CX85...

I kid ye not:


ABOVE: Atari hardware gets the Space 1999 treatment - Series 1 Episode 19 - 40:29.

Koenig is a working on an Oric device driver to stop the Main Computer at Moonbase Alpha suffering further tape loading errors...

 

Tim,

I'm mystified - clear as a bell and hi-res at my end.

I'll try again...



What's that looking like, Tim, any better?

 

That's a fine example of early "ergonomics." It's like it wasn't designed for two handed entry at all!

Referring to the 1999 keypad.

 

Wow lots been going on, loved the pictures of the CX85, i'd never really thought to look or search for one purely as I though it was a joystick or similar.
Your's looks to be in great condition as well.
Just an update, there are two replacement 'Pokey' clones or two groups.
PokeyOne
This is the version that works as a sound chip only with no support for SIO or Paddles etc.
but comes as a stereo or even a quad Pokey sound chip for in the main Arcade cabinets, or as a 2nd chip for Stereo, in an Atari Computer.
Have a look here https://atariage.com/forums/topic/291527-finally-new-pokey-chips/

PokeyMAX
Based on a similar concept, but with additional components added external to the FPGA chip they are based on, allows full compatiability with the original Pokey from Atari, as SIO Padles etc all work, plus it does Stereo and can have a built in U1MB or I guess Incognito control all added at the time it's programmed prior to shipment.
have a look on AA https://atariage.com/forums/topic/295242-pokeymax-v2/#comments
I PM'd Jurek and started from there price was I think about $50 US with shipping to the UK and conversion £54 sterling, I looked at this cost as being the price of two Pokeys, Marlin (MacRorie) charged me $90 for two brand new originals when I bought my XLD board.

It looks great for a 800 upgrade as there's nothing to get in the way bar an addition width of a few millimeters, makes it easier on a 600XL as well.

800 main board looking at PIA & Pokey clerance, I'm aware of the height restriction from the shield.
but good for PokeyMAX and an Additional PIA


PokeyMAX comparision with original chip


Sat in XLD, not tried just though I'd sit it on the socket (wasnt inserted)

 

Thanks for the info @Graham , but I already did a piggy-back Pokey mod to my 800, so I'd only need the PokeyMax for it if one of the POKEY chips I installed is bad. I had no working keyboard after I installed that upgrade and the Incognito (which worked), and my guess was a bad 74LS chip I used with the Pokey's, but if that isn't it then it means the bottom POKEY must be dead, if that is the case then I may get one for the 800.

Otherwise I'm looking for POKEY options for the other machines I'm working on. I'm only interested in substitutes if I can't find real POKEY's for less than the PokeyMax. But it's quite possible I still have a couple of Pokey's hiding in a couple of Atari 7800 Ballblazer carts I think I still have in storage. I'll be sorting that all out soon, so I'll know in a couple weeks where I stand with Pokey's.

My 7800 series regulators arrived yesterday with my globe, so I'll be working on the 800 today...

 

I don't have to desolder, they are both in sockets. I do things professionally, even if DIY.

 

They are, with a socket in-between and the socket pins are what is cut or soldered. I would have to desolder if I needed the socket removed from the first Pokey, but it certainly doesn't hurt the first Pokey to leave it there. Besides, with my keyboard not working, that means it would have to be the first Pokey* that is bad, so there would be no damage if I desolder the socket since the Pokey is bad anyway. I did this because no current dual Pokey boards will fit where the pokey is located, and I didn't feel like making my own when piggy-backing is good enough.

I'd do the same with the PIA, but there is room for a board there, and if you are going to make a board, I'll either have you make me one or follow your schematics to make my own.

*The original Pokey that I know works was removed and I most likely installed the bad Pokey in the mobo socket and the good Pokey is in the socket on top, I didn't bother to keep track of which was which, but that must be the issue. In the mean-time I have several other Pokeys I can take from other non-working machines and worry about replacing them when I get to them, and it might just be a PokeyMAX I replace it with if I can't find an old 7800 Ballblazer cart or two I think I have to salvage Pokeys.

 

I hope you have made some progress with your 800 now, back up and working ?
lets hope so.
Feeling a lot less tired so i'm going to try working on the final schematic for the PIA decoder, i'll have to confirm all o.k with a vero based hardware version to check, and only then will I design a circuit board layout, biggest issue with the 800 is getting to the additional addresslines.

 

I wasn't in the mood yesterday to do any electronics, I may get to it today.

 

My latest Atari toy is a 410 program recorder in excellent condition, and boxed, with Blue Max tape, that I picked up on ebay for $15. The description said "non-working, belts?" But knowing I could fix it, and cosmetically it's in great shape, I went for it. I'd been looking for a fair priced 410 to go with my 800 for a while now. So, I plugged it in and tried fast forward and rewind, and sure enough, no movement on the spindles, but I can hear the motor, so it does look like it needs new belts, which I also purchased from a different seller for $5.