Most liked posts in thread: What's new Pussycat too?

Ah, thank you for that, ignore the repeat question in the Amstrad thread.

 

PC Engine is a great console, love some of the arcade conversions like Outrun, Power Drift, Chase HQ on it.

 

Ha ha, evil...But right up my mindset

 

I've seen "The League" but it's been many years and atm I don't recall the reference. I guess I better watch it again...but wait...maybe I'm not thinking of the same thing...I'm thinking of 'The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen.' So I guess I better go look into the regular League of Gentlemen...

 

Brilliant, Matt.

I don't know about you guys, but this fine shoot em up has got a strong sense of Xevious to me - which I absolutely adore.

Nice work, mate.

Would like to get my paws on this too some day.

Thanks for the post and update for us all.

 

And its sister game, sputum....





OK, I lied...

The shooter is just great, waiting for a possible digital download after all the carts sell...

Flob is great fun as well, I presume the Polish dev had no idea about the name

 

I wouldn't mind doing some "ripping" too, from game hex code to re-do the sprites, animation frames and artwork on some games like TIX does...

 

Yes, he's very talented..

 

Some really great, creative and inspired threads on here at the mo, guys - very much enjoying your musings. And that free CRT TV of Matt's is a winner all day long in my opinion - it's just the sort of "treasure" I am always drawn to when left outside houses around here, surplus to modern requirements, but I find my "leash" gets pulled usually in the opposite direction with the insistent command "COME AWAY!" ringing in my excited ears...from our Bev....LOL! Game on, cable on and carry on enjoying our wonderful hobby, fellas.

 

OOPs

 

Brilliant, Daz.

Absolutely - peeps on here are very very helpful and generous with their time and gifts.

Is it just me or can other folks see Alex Drito's image?

All I get is....

 

Of course not only will the shop/office building contain my new electronics work bench with all the room I need for it, and the 3D printer, but I will be moving my 800 Incognito computer system out to the office desk I'll have in there too, as I already use it with Syncalc and Synfile and Your Personal Net Worth programs for all the business accounts and paperwork. This will then give me more space in my "XL Command Center" for adding another brand of vintage micro to it alongside the 1200XL. I would say a C64 system, but prices for them right now are ridiculous, so I may get something else instead, first, like a TRS-80 Coco 2 as they are selling for much less right now. But I'll look into a BBC micro and Spectrum +2 and Amstradt prices too, as I'm also interested in them. But there can be only one...I may yet come across a reasonably priced C64 system, we'll see.

 

Brilliant acquisition there, Matt - an excellent arrival on its way - a Coco2, eh?

Reminds me a bit of the UK Colour Genie, anyone?



You go steady, Paul, with those aches, strains, pulls and pains as it must be hell enduring that when it's giving it some (I know Richie has a lot to cope with in this department too).

As Paul rightly says though, Matt... you should go for the max with all your extension plans as the way you're going, mate, there will be other machines yet which just *MIGHT* tempt you too!

Enjoy, fella - exciting times.

 

As long as you can still wipe your own arse, if I ever can't do that I'll do my best to do myself in as I will never have someone wipe it for me, that's when my feelings of suicide being a permanent solution to temporary problems becomes meaningless as the future would hold no hope under those circumstances.

 

Honestly, I don't see much resemblance between the Genie and the Coco except similar case colors. The CoCo 2 looks closer to the BBC micro aside from colors and I don't think it looks much like it either.

 

I'm about 6hrs kip a night, Matt, so know where yer coming from.

NEVER enough hours in a day for sures.

 

Bad news for my last bought C64 - btw it has a UK serial number - that's the initial screen when I first turned it on today. Two flashing cursors! Some character garbage on the bottom, starting title partially correct. Probably the BASIC or the KERNAL ROM must be replaced. Hopefully, it is not RAM chips, because this motherboard features all 4164 ICs soldered to the PCB.

 

Nice site...Good luck..

 

Thanks, Paul.

For now, replacing the U14 with a 74F258 (instead of a 74LS258) worked fine! They are the same family, apparently... but someone told me it's better to go for a true MOS7709 (quite impossible to find) or a 74LS258, which should be the "slower" version of the "F" (fast?) chip type. I really don't know the difference between the two, but I asked some friends if they happen to have the "LS" version, which is recommended in the long run, so they say.

 

LOL! But don't you have some experience with what I am referring too with 74LS and 74F series chips? I thought I recalled you posting on AA about having issues with U1MB or some other upgrade and the suggested fix by some one (probably The Doctor or Doctor Venkman or FlashJazzCat) was replacing the 74LS with a 74F for greater stability? Of course you weren't the only or first, if it was you, and I could be wrong and it was someone else...

The reason I remember the post and replies, if it was you or not, was because this was the first that I myself had heard of the newer 74F series, I was still replacing 74LS series with 74HC series until I read that thread, now I am using 74F series as they are more improved in all the areas I mentioned. If I had read it and replied first, I would have suggested a 74HC instead, as I didn't know of the 74F.

 

Do you mean blue keys with black text on blue or how they are now? You said keys twice.

 

Thanks. I'm not a fan of re-painted computers (or consoles) myself, but I've tried restoring the cases of the 800 line a couple of times, and I feel continual "retro-brite" sessions every year or two can only be hastening the fragility of the plastic, with noticeable diminishing returns on the results each time, so painting is a last, more permanent resort. Plus, hiding the cases from further light and it's damage with the paint can only be a good thing for the plastic's longevity too. And, of course, this opens the door for a whole new look, if done right.

I'll be doing the same to the off-white parts of the rest of my XL system as well (the 1200XL computer's off-white already painted and it's still looking good after about 5 years) as those parts are turning more yellow all the time as well. But I do love the XL's colors and looks, so it gets stock color repainting or as close as I can get (damn close). In the case (pun intended) of the 1200XL I had installed a real PBI port on it, which caused the need for body work to make it look original, and after that the only choice to restore it's looks was paint as well, but only the off-white parts. The dark brown of the rest of the XL line protects it from discoloration it seems (almost 40 years and none yet).

I also had to fgve my Dreamcast a paint job, with the same issue as the 800 equipment, with 2 retro-brite sessions as well and the yellowing of it's white case returning with a vengeance. So I had to paint it too, and went with black and metallic nickel for it. Which I think also looks good.

The only computer or console I ever painted without it needing it was my Atari Jaguar system that I painted about 20 years ago (the original paint job still looks great too!) but I was younger and more impulsive.

 

That short wave radio / Arduino kit looks and sounds brilliant, Matt.
I do remember the WEFAX project from that old copy of Antic - just remind what extra it brings to the party on top of the weather forecasts etc you can already get through Fujinet as my memory these days is a complete non-starter some days.
Yep, the postage these days getting anything from A to B in the same country is bad enough (and so going transatlantic calls for a visit to see the bank manager) so we've all got to count the pennies but we also know the great feeling it gives sending folks something nice - and of course the surprise and joy for the receiver is often far in excess of anything we dreamed of so in the end it's well worth it if we can spread a little joy this Chrimbo, fellas.
As we all know, the past 18months have been sheer hell for most so let's cut loose a little...

 

Thanks Andy. Seeing the grey color on the computer and accessories again in daylight (instead of lamp light while doing the badge) I realize the grey I used is too dark, but easily fixed. I also found a way to get the '800CX' in outline form like the original, and insert it to the graphic art program as another layer .png image (this badge is done in 4 layers for each color and font). Hopefully I can finish the job this weekend since we are suppose to have warm (enough for clear coating) and sunny weather again for a bit.

In the mean time, I've received some more parts for other projects. Some potentiometers. I need two new ones to replace broken ones I removed from my analog/digital trainer/experimenter P.A.D (power supply analog digital) and since the whole set below was only $15, with a variety and knobs too (I can use for the PAD and other missing knobs on vintage stuff), I figured I'd have more for future projects and repairs.

I also finally remembered to get some proper sliding pots to correct the ones on my Super Sketch Pad I reviewed and spoke of the issue either here or on Atari Sector several years ago, so I can fix it's flawed "engineering" and have the proper resolution to cover the full screen, unlike the originals.

 

TRAGEDY STRIKES MY 800CX!

I finally was able to find time during a good day to finish the clear coating of my 800CX, All went relatively well, everything turned out nice in the end. After painting all the cases, etc. and allowing to dry too the touch, I put them all up to fully cure for the last 72 or so hours. I brought them in to my Fujilab this evening and I dropped the 800's lid/cartridge door and the brittle plastic shattered (cleanly at least) right on it's hinges where the most stress is applied, and also right on the front cartridge door! So this is turning into a full broken machine restoration and not just a facelift and make-over. So I tried to be carefull, but I'm just not as agile and well-balanced as in my youth!




So now I am going to have to repair them! I'll have to try and hide the crack on the door, once glued, with some more white paint, I think I can make it look like it never happened as it is a clean break and only leaves a hair-line crack visible when held together. I don't know if gluing and touch-up will be good enough for the door hinges, I may have to reinforce them which will be something that shows with the door open, but I may have no choice! Wish me luck lads, as I head forward.

Any recommendations for really good plastic repair glue or resin? I'm planning on a couple of drops of super glue, to hold it tight without clamps and such, with clear Gorilla glue applied sparingly, at the same time down most of the length of the breaks in-between the super glued drops at either end, for what I think will be a better long-term glue, but it takes quite a few hours or overnight to properly cure, then light sanding and repainting.

If you boys know a better way let me know. I generally would use J.B. Weld for case and plastic part repairs or hacks, which I believe to be the best, but that is before any painting is done and I can properly sand it smooth. At this point going that route would require a complete paint removal and restart which I hope to avoid.

I also dropped the top case of the 410 and it cracked near it's front corner, but I as able to glue and touch up before I did the clear coat. It can't be seen unless you look really close. Such brittle old plastic, as they both fell on a rug too. I knew it was brittle and have seen other accidents and shipping horrors.